Aggiecommunitygarden's Blog

The Community Garden Handbook

I.  The Beginning of the Community Garden

We successfully planted in spring ’08 and are so excited about expanding this fall. Our goal is to create a sustainable gardening environment by collaborating with the TAMU administration, faculty, student groups, and community members. Let’s help grow a unique place on campus that will be a peaceful refuge, a place of bonding, and a source of healthy food from positive ecological practice. Plots are open to anyone in the community as long as they are available.

Our garden is unique, most community gardens only give members a place to plant, we provide our gardeners with gardening lessons, plants, compost, mulch and tools. Because of this we expect something from our gardeners. We want our garden to positively affect the whole community so we donate part of our crops to the local food bank and soup kitchen. Another way we are planning on giving back to the community is through garden related lessons open to anyone. We are also planning on selling our produce on campus to students, faculty, and staff along with a vegetable seedling sale in October.

The whole garden would all like to extend a special thank you to Dr. Novak for all of the advice, encouragement and knowledge he has given us from the beginning. He has been so willing to take time out of his busy schedule for us, without him none of this could have happened.

This is how we garden!

II. Garden Maintenance

Each gardener is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of their garden plot. One plot is consists of two 20′ x 2′ rows, care for your plot extends to the low space between the two rows and to the middle of the low spaces of either side of the rows. Specifically maintenance means keeping your garden weed free between plants and rows and 5 feet in front of your garden by maintaining proper amounts of mulch coverage over these areas. Mulch should be at least one inch deep and newspaper should not show from under it. If you choose to put newspaper down under your mulch the paper needs to stay hidden under the mulch and not fly around creating litter. If the paper is showing you do not have enough mulch on your plot.  Maintenance also includes proper harvesting of plants meaning that you should remove vegetables from the main plant once they have reached proper maturity. If left on the plant for too long vegetables can rot and attract bugs that are not beneficial to the garden along with disease, which can spread to other gardeners’ vegetables.  If you do not know when you should harvest your vegetables or are unsure how to properly harvest your vegetables, ask! All gardeners are responsible for the area around the garden. Everyone needs to take turns edging and mowing around the garden. There is a mower and an edger inside the cabin along with the rest of the tools. If the area around the garden is not staying clean or it becomes apparent that not everyone is pitching in the Garden Coordinator has the right to create a schedule giving each gardener a week in which it is their job to mow or edge.

Garden Rules:

1. 1. Each gardener is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of their garden plot (Ranging from 20’ x 4’, 20’ x 8’ or 20’ x 16’).  Specifically this means keeping your garden weed free between plants and rows, inside the buffer zone, and 5 feet in front of your garden. Maintenance also includes proper harvesting of plants and other general garden maintenance.
2. 2. Garden plots are to be cared for at least once a week. It is the gardener’s responsibility to have a fellow gardener or friend care for their plot if they are unable to do so in any given week. This includes all school holidays specifically Thanksgiving and Winter break. You are expected to continue caring for your plot during these times.
3. 3. If a plot does not meet the standards specified in the Community Garden Handbook it will be yellow flagged. If a plot is yellow flagged it must be tidied within one week. If after one week the plot still does not meet with the standards it will be red flagged at which point it must be fixed within two days. After the two days are up the plot will be reassigned without refund to the original owner. If a plot has received a yellow flag three times the fourth offence will mean an automatic red flagging of the plot. If there is any confusion as to why a plot has been flagged call the Garden Coordinator.
4. 4. The Community Garden is indeed about the Community therefore once a growing season we will donate together at outreach programs but you are encouraged to donate as often as possible (I promise your fridge will get way too full.)
5. 5. Two or more gardeners per plot is permitted and encouraged if you have a busy schedule.
6. 6. Meetings are held four times a month.  Each meeting is used as work days to maintain our plots.  During one of those meetings we may also relay any important information.   These meetings are very important. You must inform the Garden Coordinator if you are planning on not attending.
7. Tools and other equipment will be available in the holistic garden cabin; however, only coordinators will have access to the locked shed. These tools are being lent to us by the Holistic Gardens so it is very important to treat them properly and put them away after using them. How to properly care for the tools will be in the Garden Handbook.
8. The application of synthetic herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers to the garden plots is prohibited. If you’re unsure if you can use a product please consult Dr. Novak or the Garden Coordinator.
9. Garden plot assignments and locations will be given first to returning gardeners then by a first come first serve basis.
10. 10. Plot fees of $20 are due in full before use of the assigned plot. (This amount is per plot not per person if you are sharing a plot.)
11. 11. Gardeners may harvest vegetables and flowers from their garden ONLY unless given permission by other plot owners. Do not pick anything from the Holistic Garden or the surrounding area unless given explicit permission from Dr. Novak.
12. 12. At the end of the spring growing season the land will be tilled in order to prepare it for the next.  Many people leave over the summer and the upkeep of the land is too difficult.
13. 13. It is a requirement to offer at least 10 volunteer hours throughout the semester with any possible help to improve the maintenance and quality of the garden.

III.  Tool Care

Tools are being lent to us by the Holistic Garden because of this it is extremely important to treat the tools with extra care. Shovels, hoes, rakes, mowers, and edgers can all be found inside the Holistic Garden Cabin. The cabin lock combination will be given to the gardeners during the first garden meeting. The cabin is very full, when removing tools please do so carefully. If a tool breaks while you are using it put it back in the cabin and tell the garden coordinator and/or Dr. Novak. You will not get in any trouble if a tool break unless it is obviously due to extreme miss use. Only use each tool as it was made to be used, if you’re unsure on how to use a tool ask the Garden Coordinator before using it. Once you are done using a tool wash it off with a hose to remove excess dirt and return it to the cabin. Wheelbarrows can be found by the composting  area in the holistic garden. Feel free to use them but be sure and check the tire some are deflated. Do not use the wheelbarrows if the front tire is flat or seems very low. Once you finished with a wheelbarrow rinse off excess dirt and put it back where you found it.

*Important Safety Tip:

Do not leave shovels, hoes, or rakes lying on the ground with the raised metal side pointing up. The grass can be long and it is easy for a fellow gardener to step on the tool and hurt their feet or have the wooden handle pop up and hit them! If you are done with a tool and do not want to put it away yet try and place it in an area out of the way where most people are not walking or can see it easily.

If you do not feel comfortable using the mower and/or edger then please do not use it! The Garden Coordinator can find other things for you to do in order to help maintain the garden area.

IV.  Gardening Steps

Step 1:

Plot design

Dr. Novak will assist in the designing of the plots (esp. for the new members who have never gardened before).  He will explain which plants are best for the season and how far apart they need to be spaced.  He will help you maximize your plots growing ability.  Using the plot diagram you will label where your seeds and transplants will be planted in your plot.  See the Planting Guide for a list of planting dates for our area and plant spacing.

Step 2:

Preparing your plot

The plots are tilled up by the farm crew, which will form each row (20’ x 2’).  A plot can consist of 1, 2 or 4 of these.  Provided compost can be mixed into these plots to help prepare the soil.

Step 3:

Planting seeds and transplants

Using the plot diagram handout, you will follow where you had labeled where you will plant.  Each seed is planted differently depending on the type of plant.  Dr. Novak will explain how each seed and transplant is to be planted.  See the Planting Guide for a list of plant spacing and method.  Try to mark where you have planted each seed as you go so you will not mistake the sprouting vegetable for a weed.  *Dr. Novak will provide seeds and transplants to us on the pretense that as a group we prepare transplants for the annual plant sale of the Holistic Garden.

Step 4:

Mulching

Mulching well is extremely important.  Your garden must stay weed free in order for it to thrive and without large amounts of mulch this will be almost impossible.  Mulching is one of the most time consuming parts of gardening but offers a garden of the most success!  Putting the hours in the garden beforehand will allow for an easier garden season and more productive season; it allows the plants to maintain moisture and thrive.  Mulch will be provided along with the compost; after you have finished planting your seeds and transplants add 1 to 2 inches of compost, being sure to leave a generous hole around the area that you planted your seeds (it is most important to compost around your transplants then your seeded plant once they begin to sprout).  *The seeds will not sprout if they are covered by the compost and mulch.  Next lay down newspaper along the sides and between your rows, being sure to overlap the edges of the paper by at least 2 inches; this will ensure no weeds can sprout up between the pages.  The last step is to add at least 1 to 2 inches of mulch on top of the news-papered and composted areas again leaving a hole around where your seeds are.  *Be sure that your irrigation hose is underneath the mulch or else your plants may not get enough water.

*Newspaper tips:  Do not use glossy pages or ads; the inks may be toxic to your plants.  You will want to put newspaper down at the same time as the mulch so the paper does not fly away; it may help to slightly dampen the newspaper.

V.    Planting seasons

T signifies that it must be a transplant

It is too late to plant brussels sprouts, celery, and garlic.  They needed to be in the ground for a couple months before it gets cold.

When planning your plots keep in mind that warm season vegetables (most listed below) take up more space than cool season.

End of January

Potatoes: Irish (tubors)

Greens: Spinach, Swiss Chard, Mustard, Turnips

Root Crops: Carrots, Beats, Radishes, Turnips, Onions (sets) T

Peas: Sugar Snap

Salad Vegetables: Lettuces (will bolt when it turns hot)

Cabbage T

Broccoli T

Kohl Rabi (may not get much from it)

End of March early April

Summer Squash

Green beans

Tomatoes

Peppers

Egg Plant

Okra

Black Eye Peas

Lima beans

Sweet potatoes (harvest in August)

These can be planted but they will be ready for harvest during summer (June)

Melons

Watermellon

Pumpkins

Winter Squashes

Sweet Corn

Peanuts

VI.  Organic Technique

Organic fertilizers

Compost Tea

1. Take a gallon bucket and fill halfway with compost
2. Fill rest of way with water
3. Add ¼ cup molasses
4. Let sit in sun for 1-2 days.
5. Pour liquid on to the roots of your plants and add solids to soil.  The bacteria of it can also deter ants away from your plants.

*There are many commercial organic fertilizers sold in garden stores

Organic Herbicides

Vinegar and dish soap

Use a funnel to place the following ingredients in a medium spray bottle approximately the size of a quart, but it doesn’t have to be exact:

• 1 cup of vinegar
• 1/2 cup of regular dish soap (not dishwasher detergent)
• Fill the rest of the bottle up with water.

Shake well before each use. Spray mixture directly on the weed itself; if weed is out in the yard, be careful not to spray the grass! The vinegar is what kills the weeds, but the dish soap holds the vinegar in place so it stays on the plant instead of running off. This works great on grass or weeds in sidewalk or driveway cracks, too. Best time to spray is in the middle of the day when the sun is beating down on you.

*Just a quick comment on the weed killers: Add dish soap to the vinegar and mix it with water to spot-weed the yard (usually 1 part dish soap, 2 parts vinegar, and 2 parts water). The dish soap makes the vinegar stick to the weed longer, and a couple of days baking in the sun should do the trick.

Organic Fungicides

Control of Black Spot and Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects beans, cucumbers, melons, peas, pumpkins, squash and strawberries as well as many fruit trees and roses. Black spot is a fungal disease that produces black spots on the leaves of infected roses. In severe cases, the plant can be defoliated. To remedy these problems, mix:

• 3 Tbs Baking Soda
• 2½ Tbs orange oil
• One gallon of water
• Spray the mix onto infected plants. Reapply as often as needed.

Organic Insecticides

Wood Ash

Probably the best organic way to get rid of rust flies, carrot weevils, wireworms, and other carrot pests is to soak the bed once a week with a thin mixture of wood ashes and water using a watering can.

Garlic and Pepper Spray

Protect your garden plants from cabbageworms, caterpillars, hornworms, aphids, flea beetles and other chewing/sucking insects by routinely using a natural spray that you can make at home. The spray must be applied regularly, especially after a rainfall. Brew up a batch as follows:

• 6 cloves of garlic
• 1 Tbsp dried hot pepper
• 1-minced onion
• 1 
tsp pure soap (not detergent)
• 1 gallon hot water
• Blend & let sit for 1 – 2 days

Strain & use as spray. Ground cayenne or red hot pepper can also be sprinkled on the leaves of plants (apply when leaves are slightly damp) to repel chewing insects or added to the planting hole with bone meal or fertilizer to keep squirrels, chipmunks, dogs and other mammals away from your gardens. Be sure to reapply after rain.

• To deter cucumber beetles, try planting a few radish seeds in each hill of cukes. Let it grow alongside the cucumbers all season. The strong smell or taste of the radish seems to keep the beetles away.
• Homemade garlic or hot pepper sprays can protect your young seedlings from flea beetles and aphids. To prepare, combine finely chopped garlic and onions (or hot peppers) with water, let it steep for a while and then strain out particles. Spray vulnerable plants often, especially after rainfall. You can also sprinkle ground cayenne or other hot ground pepper directly onto leaves to deter chewing pests. This is most effective in the morning when leaves are moist with dew.
• Control powdery mildew and fungi on garden crops by combining one cup of milk with nine cups of water and spray onto affected plants twice a week. Researchers believe the milk has a direct germicidal effect as well as indirectly stimulating the plants to become more resistant.
• Releasing large numbers of Lady Bugs or Praying Mantis into areas of your garden infested with insect pests is lots of fun and can be a very effective means of controlling aphids, mealy bugs, leaf worms, and many other pests. Lady Bugs should be released at night near the base of infested plants where they will seek out and devour insect pests. Praying mantis are voracious predators that will feed on many of the larger insect pests including grubs, beetles, leafhoppers and caterpillars. These beneficial insects are available for sale at garden centers and through mail order.
• For some pests like aphids and caterpillars, a strong spray from a garden hose can knock them loose. It’s important to spray the underside of the leaves where most insect pests reside.
• Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a bacterial disease that is safe to humans but wreaks havoc on many caterpillar and larval stage pests including Colorado potato beetle, cabbage looper, and tomato hornworm. It is sold in the form of a soluble powder that is sprayed on the plant surface and is then ingested by the pest. Be sure to use the right type of Bt for the pest you want to control.

Homemade sprays are easy to make and use but must be applied regularly. Mix one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid per ½ gallon of water and spray insect pests directly to kill. It is best to spray plants on cloudy days or in the early evening when they are not in direct sunlight. It’s a good idea to rinse the soap residue off after a couple of hours to reduce leaf damage to sensitive plants. You can prepare garlic and hot pepper sprays to prevent insect pests from munching on plants. Mix several garlic cloves with water and steep overnight. Strain and spray on plants every few days or after rainfall. You can do the same using hot peppers in place of or in addition to the garlic. These bad tasting sprays can also deter small mammals.

Organic Fire Ant Insecticide

Orange Oil Recipe for Fire Ants

• 6 oz. orange oil
  • 1 Tbs. feed molasses
  • 1 squeeze of liquid dish soap
  • Add to a gallon jug and fill with water.
  • Use during middle of day when most ants are in the mound. (hottest part of day) Pour directly onto mound; the orange oil dissolves the ants’ exoskeleton.

Organic Deer Deterring Tips

Mix one egg per gallon of water and spray on plants. Reapply once a week or after rain.

Tie unused fabric softener sheets onto trees and shrubs or on stakes around plants being bothered by deer. They seem to hate the smell, so buy the brand with the strongest scent and only replace if the scent has faded. Rain does not seem to hinder their effectiveness

VII.  Reducing Weeds

Prevention

You can’t stop wind from blowing weed seeds into your garden or birds from dropping them from overhead. Nevertheless, you can employ a number of tools to keep them to a minimum.

Solarize your soil

Prepare your soil for planting, water it well and cover it with dark plastic. After four weeks, the sun’s heat (as hot as 160ºF) will have killed any weed seeds and harmful microorganisms residing in the top few inches of the soil. Let the soil dry before planting and avoid disturbing it to prevent deeper lying seeds from reaching the top.

Avoid Imports

Weeds can be imported to your garden from the soil of plants received as gifts, a rotten veggie tossed off to the side or as part of compost or fertilizer (especially horse manure). Before adding compost, mulch or new soil to your garden, pot some to test it for weed sprouts.

Plant Through Plastic

This is great for smaller gardens. Prepare soil for planting, water it thoroughly and cover it with dark plastic. Make small slits in the plastic to plant your seeds. The plastic will keep weeds from sprouting, though it may be more difficult to add compost or soil amendments later if necessary.

Space Plants Appropriately

Spacing plants correctly allows crops to naturally shade the soil and prevents weeds from sprouting. The leaf tips of mature plants will just touch each other if spaced appropriately.

Mulch Like a Maniac

Once your plants are a few inches tall, weed thoroughly then mulch. Weed control is just one of the many benefits of mulching; it holds in moisture, adds nutrients to the soil, improves soil structure, prevents soil-borne diseases, encourages worms, prevents run-off and keeps flowers and veggies clean!

Get Down and Dirty

Pulling weeds by hand is still one of the most effective methods of weed control. Try to remove weeds before they set seed. Moist soil makes them easier to remove. If the tops are seedy or you’re unsure of the weeds lifecycle (annual, perennial, etc.) don’t compost them, bury them away from your garden.

Control Weeds with Water

Underground and drip irrigation systems deliver water only to the plants you’re trying to cultivate.  This minimizes the amount of moisture water-competing weeds have access to.

Plant Cover Crops

Planting cover crops (grains, clovers or legumes) over the winter will protect your soil from erosion, enrich it with nutrients and inhibit weed growth all at the same time. Cover crops planted during the growing season act as mulch around fruit trees, shrubs and perennial vegetables. Consult with your local extension agent or garden supply store to find out what types of cover crops work best for your climate and soil.

VIII.  Planting Peas

Our best resource for supporting peas is using bamboo.

IX.  Extra Resources

Online Resources

http://brazosgrows.org/

http://acga.localharvest.org/garden/M1898

http://sites.google.com/a/ilovepeople.org/garden/Rules